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New York Bird Club > Forums > Health & Care > The ABC's of Breeding (Avian Birth Control)
 
 


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Linda Singerman
    04/26/07 at 12:49 PMReply with quote#16

Breeding Behaviors

Most new bird guardians have no idea that their parrot is a sexual being. Parrots are not routinely spayed and neutered like dogs and cats. Therefore, all of their sexual hormones are present and they will go through stages of sexual maturity. This is important for you to be aware of and so that you can learn to manage your bird to avoid certain breeding behaviors. Most birds will enter into sexual maturity at a certain age, and it's different for all species. You might notice your bird maturbating, using toys or other objects to stimulte the area under their tail with. Or, your bird might regurgitate some food for you or for his toys. Your female bird might lay some eggs on the bottom of her cage.

Cockatiels are considered prolific breeders. They will breed and raise babies under nearly any condition. They will go through the motions of breeding even without a mate. Females will lay eggs, which can delplete their calcium and other resources. Male Cockatiels who are "turned on" can be quite aggressive.

Cockatoos and Amazons can also get aggressive during "breeding season."

Avoiding breeding behaviors:

Try to keep your bird to a 12/12 schedule: 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Longer days (more light) signal to your bird that it's breeding season, so even if it's dark outside at 4:30 in the middle of December, if your bird stays up late with you watching TV, he could be triggered by the "long day."

Keep your bird out of small, enclosed, dark areas, like under the couch, in a cupboard, in a box, in a sleeping hut, etc. These areas resemble a nest to your bird, and will seem a quite inviting and comfortable space in which to lay eggs and raise some chicks.

If you sense that your bird is exhibiting some breeding behaviors (aggression, keen interest in dark areas, excessive chewing), you can restrict her access to warm, soft food. In the wild, males will feed females who are nesting on eggs through regurgitation.

If you notice your bird masturbating, try to stop him from doing that if you can catch him. If he seems to be especially attracted to a certain toy, perch, or object, remove it for a little while and see if that helps.

Don't pet your bird anywhere on his body besides his head and neck area. The rest of the body is pretty much one big erogenous zone, and if you pet your bird under his wings, on top of his back, or under his tail, you'll be giving him signals that you're ready to mate with him!

Sometimes one of your birds might have an unhealthy attraction to another bird, such as a larger, more dangerous bird. If this happens, you may need to clip the little guy's wings and keep them separated to keep everyone safe.

Avoiding Chicks

If you notice two birds actually copulating, or if you find eggs in the cage of a female who has access to a male bird, you'll want to take some measures to insure these eggs don't hatch. It sounds cruel and mean, but your bird really won't mind, and you're saving yourself, your mother bird, and any potential chicks quite a bit of time, energy, and heartache. Having babies around might sound like fun, but it's a lot of work, and if your bird has never parented chicks before, she's going to find it quite stressful, and she may not be successful at it. Then you would have to decide if you could care for these additional birds, or if you'd have to give them away. Who knows what kinds of homes your chicks might go to. It's just best for you and for the birds to make sure the eggs don't hatch. You can do this by gently removing the eggs from the mother bird and shaking them up, or hard boiling them. Don't just take them and throw them away, as this will induce the female to lay more eggs to replace those she lost. Replace the shaken/hard boiled eggs and let her sit on them for as long as she wishes. She'll give up eventually and abandon them. After that, you can toss them.

Liz
    06/15/07 at 07:23 AMReply with quote#17

i find these posts funny. in Australia we view bird breeding as essential because we have many native birds that need breeding to keep numbers up. Its called Aviculture. we stick to the standards, never hybridise and always strive to keep the healthiest birds. In aviaries, where birds should be if not out in the wild. Not in cages or flying around a house.
Yvonne
    06/15/07 at 08:52 AMReply with quote#18

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liz
i find these posts funny. in Australia we view bird breeding as essential because we have many native birds that need breeding to keep numbers up. Its called Aviculture. we stick to the standards, never hybridise and always strive to keep the healthiest birds. In aviaries, where birds should be if not out in the wild. Not in cages or flying around a house.

Yes, in cages and in houses is sick both for the birds and their caretakers.  I think here in North America that the word "aviculture" has taken on a whole new weird meaning.  They think it means keeping birds caged in a human home, which sometimes is a cramped basement or apartment full of toxicity, so it's no wonder most of them die at an early age and there's so much fighting going on among people.  But after they are in aviaries, it is best to release them where they are free.  Tell that to some of these folks, and they go bananas on you.  They even have an Association of Aviculture, or something like that, which is run by a group of control freaks who never want birds to be free again because of a need for power and/or money.

Guest
    07/30/07 at 09:43 AMReply with quote#19

Another company that sell fake bird eggs is Red Bird Products.

530-620-7440

redbird@directcon.net

Elaine
    08/02/07 at 09:12 AMReply with quote#20

To avoid inducing your bird, be sure to limit daylight hours (12 hours of light and 12 of dark are good), avoid letting him hang out in dark spaces like boxes and sleeping huts, and don't pet him or her anywhere but the head and neck area.

luciedove
    11/25/08 at 01:23 PMReply with quote#21

HOW TO REPLACE LIVE BIRD EGGS WITH
PLASTIC FAKE ARTIFICIAL EGGS

 
DIRECTIONS:


Leave fake eggs in nest until hen has no interest in them. You can just put them in all at once and take out the real ones. The sooner and the more eggs the better, but try not to let the birds see you do it.

Put in the number of eggs that she would lay in a clutch, plus more. She will reject the ones she does not want. Cockatiels ­usually need 7 to 9 fake plastic eggs. Fertilized eggs hatch in 21 days and another clutch can follow. It is best to leave the eggs in for as long as it takes, which could be months, before your hen looses interest in them.

Bonded pairs, male and female, will take turns sitting the eggs. They will defend their nest from intruders, so watch out when changing food and water daily. I have found a wide heavy shallow bowl placed at the bottom of the cage works nicely because I can see them and keep everything clean. Mama Bird comes out of her cage occasionally and takes her giant nesting poop, which is 4 times the size of the regular poop, don’t be alarmed. Poppa Bird, will sit the eggs when Mama’s on break and sings to her.

Most birds will not notice slight changes in size, color, shape, or texture. If it looks close to their egg they will generally accept it and do not notice the difference when the swap is made. A cover at night makes birds feel safe and secure to sit their nest in peace. A fresh sprig of millet and fresh cuttle bone will make for very happy birds. 

Please email questions to: theEggShop@bellsouth.net
courtesy of The Egg Shop

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